The (sad) state of independents

In January, one of my favourite places to eat closed for good. 

We take them for granted, don’t we? Those little neighbourhood gems that extend a warm welcome, serve food made with love, and then wash up for us? We assume they’ll always be there, doors open, ready to welcome us back. Until they’re not. 

The closure of my go-to dining spot felt like losing a friend. It was a home from home for over a decade, a place where we made countless happy memories. My son and I would dissect the day over impromptu midweek suppers there, and I enjoyed many a long Sunday lunch with friends. Sometimes, I’d take a book and dine solo, savouring the solitude (and the luxury of not having to scrub pots and pans). 

Its closure was a stark reminder of the fragile state of independent hospitality businesses. In the current climate, every day must feel like a Sisyphean battle against increasingly stacked odds. 

Rising rent and energy costs, business rate hikes and the impact of inflation are suffocating small independent establishments. Then there’s changing consumer behaviour, with many of us eating out less often due to cost-of-living cutbacks. The relentless competition from larger chains, with their deeper pockets and economies of scale, means many independents feel they’re fighting a losing battle. Too many have already run out of road.

In the first quarter of this year, several much-loved restaurants across the capital announced they were hanging up the closed sign for the final time. They all cited financial pressures as the reason for their closure. It’s the same depressing picture across the country; UK Hospitality Cymru says Wales has lost 17% of licensed hospitality venues since the start of the Covid pandemic, compared with 14% in England and 13% in Scotland. 

After weathering the dual storms of Brexit and the pandemic, many independent businesses hang by a thread, their hard-working owners battered by the brickbats that keep coming. Hospitality PR consultant Jane Cook says that the independent restaurant owners she works with are “exhausted”:

“They have to rewrite menus every few months to keep up with rising ingredient costs. They’re constantly trying to balance what things cost and what the consumer can afford to pay. The time and energy they put into this, on top of everything else involved in running a business, is unreal. After the challenges of the last few years, they feel like they never really got out of the trenches.”

Welsh food writer Jonathan Swain adds that it’s getting increasingly expensive for many indie businesses just to stand still:

“Data released last week showed that half of hospitality businesses now have zero liquidity or cash reserves, so their owners only keep the lights on out of pride or stubbornness. Unscrupulous energy contracts, higher post-Brexit costs, and rising business rates mean they are being buffeted from all sides.”

He adds that we should “vote with our money” if we value local businesses. But if we have less to spend, how can we better support the independents that add so much value to our lives and neighbourhoods? When we do venture out, we can opt for a local eatery over a chain. We can buy gift certificates for friends or even spread the word on social media. It all helps.

As Jonathan says:

“Independent businesses are where the soul of Wales’ food lies; not imported by huge brands but in businesses owned and run by local families. They give our food character and heart, rooted in our history and communities. And yes, they feed us better. It shouldn’t be a difficult choice.”

But beyond individual actions, there’s a clear need for systemic change to offer more support and protection to these vital community cogs.

Cerys Furlong, who owns several pubs and restaurants in Cardiff, says the sector needs urgent Government intervention to mitigate the economic impact of a rise in closures:

“We need urgent reform of business rates—a tax on buildings that most independents don’t own—and lower VAT rates. It’s time the Government realised that we are vital to the communities we serve. We employ local people, who in turn spend that money locally. The sector desperately needs more support; otherwise, many cherished places won’t survive.”

Let’s hope her call is heeded. The Welsh hospitality sector employs over 165,000 people and contributes over £4 billion to our economy, so the prospect of more closures is grim. 

And it’s important to remember that every shuttered door represents not just an economic loss but a cultural one. The hospitality industry is a fundamental part of Welsh culture, from our vibrant restaurants to the picturesque hotels that attract millions of visitors to our coastline and countryside. 

Visit Wales spends millions promoting the croeso – or warm welcome – we are famous for. As an exile in London, I know I sorely missed the big smiles and friendly service of the mamland. It isn’t some arch concept dreamed up by advertising executives; it’s baked into our DNA. And it is invariably in small independent businesses where we find the warmest croeso. 

The tragedy for all of us is that when these places go, they’re gone for good, and our neighbourhoods are so much poorer for their loss. Each closure dims the light of our local high streets a little more. 

In the face of these stark realities, supporting independent businesses becomes a declaration of what we value. Each visit to a local cafe and every purchase from an independent neighbourhood shop stitch us closer to the fabric of our streets, towns, and identities.

It’s been a while since I quoted Joni Mitchell on these pages, but sometimes, we really *don’t* know what we’ve got until it’s gone. It’s time to support these local gems before the parking lots—or empty buildings—take over for good.